Purnima Shrestha, a trailblazer in mountaineering and a record breaker, sets another record by becoming the first woman to summit Mt. Everest three times in a single season. Beyond her mountaineering achievements, Purnima is a talented photojournalist who has contributed to The New York Times. It was her passion for photography that inspired her to become a mountaineer. In 2021, she climbed Dhaulagiri, which is the seventh-highest mountain in the world. By 2022, she had climbed a total of seven of the eight-thousanders by conquering Kangchenjunga, Makalu and Lhotse. In 2023, she set her mind and completed her expedition of the deadliest Mount K2, achieving her eighth 8000-meter peak. Now she aims to complete all 14 peaks in the coming year. Excerpts of a conversation with WOW:
According to Lakpa Sherpa, Expedition Director at 8K Expeditions, you broke the world record by summiting Everest three times in a row. What motivated you to undertake such a remarkable feat?
I never imagined I would climb Everest three times; it was something I had considered but I didn’t truly believe I would achieve it. Many people assumed I was trying to break a record or challenge someone, but that’s not the case. I first time climbed Everest on May 12 accompanied by Phura Temba Sherpa, reached the summit again on May 19 with Pasang Sherpa, and achieved my third summit on May 25 at 5:50 AM accompanied by Karma Gyaljen Sherpa. My goal was simply to prove that if a man could accomplish this, a woman could achieve it too.
Do you have a particular mountain or expedition that is especially meaningful to you?
When I first climbed Everest, it felt as though my goals were the most significant as I believed it might be my final expedition. Initially, I thought every journey I undertook was the most meaningful and impactful. However, having completed multiple expeditions, I now feel that Everest holds the deepest significance and has become a part of my identity. Although I have conquered other, more challenging peaks, ‘Sagarmatha’ still stands out as the most meaningful of them all.
Is mountaineering different for men and women?
As a woman in mountaineering, my experience has indeed differed from that of my male counterparts, primarily because women are significantly fewer in number in this field compared to men. While women are just as strong as men, there is still a noticeable gap which may explain the lower representation. In many Asian countries, women are generally less visible in adventurous sports, possibly due to a lack of encouragement or motivation to pursue such activities. Earlier people often expressed disbelief when I talked about being a mountaineer due to my petite build. I am often questioned about my passion for climbing being a female but the mountain does not ask or care whether I am male or female.
How do you prepare physically and mentally for each expedition?
Before any expedition, many assume that physical strength is the most crucial aspect of preparation. However, I believe it’s more about keeping your mind strong and staying motivated. It’s about resilience and the energy within you. If it were solely about physical power, there are countless strong individuals in the world, yet not everyone ventures into the mountains. For instance, when I climbed Everest three times consecutively, I relied not only on my physical strength but also on my mental power to face any challenges without giving up until I achieved my goal. You must always be ready for the unexpected and remember to never give up or lose hope as expeditions often test you in unimaginable ways.
What role has your love for photography played in these expeditions?
Photography has played a pivotal role in shaping my journey as a mountaineer. My love for photography is what first drew me to the mountains. As both a mountaineer and a photojournalist, photography has been the driving force behind my career. After returning from my first trek, I realised this was my calling. I climbed my first mountain, Manaslu, without any training in 2017 and then Everest in 2018, and since then I never stopped climbing.
Nepal’s landscape is like an artist’s vision of the perfect, serene painting, except it exists in real life, all in one frame. Through my photography, I aim to capture and share these moments showcasing Nepal’s unparalleled beauty to the world. Mountains, however, tell a unique story for each individual. Everyone has their perceptions, visions and experiences of them, and photography allows people to share their narratives. It’s a powerful way to connect with others and share stories of mountains.
Any specific moments of self-discovery or personal growth?
With countless expeditions behind me, mountains are my greatest teacher over the years. Returning from any expedition often brings a sense of immense achievement, but the most profound moment is the realisation that I am still breathing and that I am alive. The mountains teach you to value life and fostering a deeper appreciation for the small things we often take for granted in life.
You are an inspiration for many aspiring women mountaineers in Nepal. What advice would you give to them?
Being born in Nepal has been one of my greatest advantages as a mountaineer, especially when it comes to climbing Everest. To date, I have climbed eight mountains over 8,000 metres, and I believe this journey has been deeply influenced by the privilege of growing up in a land so connected to nature. It teaches you to value yourself, to appreciate life, and to be truly grateful.
For young women aspiring to follow this path, I would say, take pride in the fact that Everest and the Himalayas are part of our heritage. While these mountains are widely explored by foreigners, Nepalis should embrace and make the most of this unique opportunity. Dream big, create a vision, and let the mountains inspire you to achieve it. Your journey will not only fulfil your aspirations but also inspire others to do the same.
How do you think Nepal’s mountaineering industry can evolve to support climbers and adventurers better?
I sometimes feel afraid about the future of Nepal’s mountains as their untouched beauty is increasingly threatened by climate change. This issue needs urgent attention because it could have profound impacts on our country and its natural treasures.
Nepal’s mountains are often promoted more by foreigners than by Nepalis or even the government. While there are countless options for exploration and adventure here, they are not adequately highlighted or promoted.
To support climbers and adventurers better, it is crucial to focus on raising awareness both nationally and internationally, investing in sustainable tourism, and addressing climate change to preserve our mountains for future generations. It’s time for action to ensure Nepal’s mountaineering scene.
What are some of your upcoming goals or projects in mountaineering?
One of my upcoming goals is to complete my expedition of 14 Peaks. Additionally, I aim to break more records on Everest, pushing the limits of what has already been achieved.
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