Anugraha Adhikari is one of the keenly watched young designers in the Nepali fashion firmament. Famous for creating fuss-free silhouettes with hand pleats and complex techniques, the Kathmandu-based designer says that fashion shows have become a means of storytelling for him.
In an interview with WOW’s Ankita Jain, Anugraha speaks about his signature style, his muse and the essence of a good cut. Excerpts:
You shared that your father was also a designer; is your foray into fashion designing a gift from him?
Absolutely. My father, late Lal Bahadur Adhikari, was a designer and whatever I know about fashion is through him. Today when we are sitting here in Biker’s Café, I fondly remember walking these lanes during my childhood as my father’s boutique was in this area.
Because of my father, I was always into fashion since my childhood. I would watch YouTube videos and tutorials and would make clothes for my Barbie dolls. I had a barbie doll back in my school days and that is how I started, after that I did my diploma from IEC college.
So, you always knew you wanted to be a designer…
I was sure that I wanted to do something in fashion but I was not sure about being a fashion designer, that was not my dream. I thought I would be a backstage help or into something that is related to fashion but designing happened. I did my diploma from IEC and I did my first show at the TGIF Fashion Week, that is when people started taking note and liking my designs.
You are known for your white gowns and hand pleating techniques; tell us about your signature style.
I started with white wedding gowns, and it went quite well, maybe because I belong to a Christian family. Today corset detailing is my signature. I like playing with plain materials more than working with glitter or embroidered fabric. Those fabrics are not my style. I take simple and subtle fabrics without any prints and I like draping it or creating textures; that is my style.
What fabrics do you prefer to work with?
Mesh, georgette, lycra mostly or any material that resonates with the design. I like fabrics that flow.
Tell us about your first collection…
My first collection was with TGIF back in 2017 and that is how it all started. But I did not give it any continuity, I took a break in 2020 for about two years and then did another show with TGIF and it just continued thereafter.
Why the break?
I had lost my dad and we shared a common talent so I started doubting my own abilities, also wondering if I was making my father proud. I felt a lot of pressure which is why I took a two-year break.
An international trend that captivates?
I do not like following trends, I would rather set a trend or do something that no one has done. I do not like keeping track of what is going on or what is happening although it is good to stay updated about everything but I do not feel like I should follow trends.
Your latest creations aren’t posted on social media. Is this intentional?
I am waiting for the right time to post all my designs on Instagram. The designs have to make sense to me first. If it relates to me, only then I post it. It’s the same even when I am doing shows.
An evergreen tip for brides while picking their wedding gown
One of the things to keep in mind when picking a wedding gown is that confidence is key to making this look work. It’s important not to let a dress wear you. Experiment with silhouettes by trying on different styles from the rack before ruling something out completely. When in doubt, fit and flare is a flattering style that suits almost any body type. You can decide how much skin you want to bare at the neckline and arms depending on the type of wedding event.
What has been the most challenging part of your fashion journey?
The kind of clothes that I make, people do not really understand them. My designs use subtle materials and are mostly plain so people assume it does not take much effort. If the design has glitters or embroidery, people think that it takes more effort and work. The kind of clothes that I make, it might take me five days to create a gown to just cut the ruffles and create edges; to create that washed look. I have to rub the fabric and create a texture; that takes time. Here people do not understand the craftsmanship behind the designs. Although glitter and embroidery material are eye pleasing but if you look for details, that is where you can see the difference.
Something unique to your designs
I give sentimental value to my clothes and also play with texture.
Your muse
Alisha Gurung, a makeup artist. She is a dear friend but not currently in Nepal. She is my muse.
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